A region of wild moorland
sprinkled with quaint granite hamlets,
where hikers will revel in their new-found
freedom. This corner of paradise is the Crozon peninsula.
On the outskirts of the Armorique Regional
Natural Park, this lush green peninsula
juts into the vast blue sea. From Rosnoën
to Douarnenez, a series of imposing
landscapes unfurls beneath walkers’
footsteps. Numerous friendly gîtes and
B&Bs propose hiking holidays of a few days along coastal
paths, in particular the
famous customs trail.
Covering 15–20 km
a day, these treks are stimulating and revitalising, occasionally attacking steep
slopes but always in complete safety.
Adopt a leisurely or brisk pace, set off on
your own or with a guide, the choice is
yours. These hikes are ideal for families
and couples alike, with a picnic and drink
the only equipment necessary.
The Crozon peninsula
Overlooking the meandering River Aulne,
the peaceful village of Landévennec is
an excellent starting point to explore the
Crozon peninsula. Visitors never fail to
admire the palm trees, mimosas and laurel
trees behind the magnificent ruins of the
former Benedictine Abbey (dating from
the fifth century) and the astonishing boat
cemetery at the foot of a neighbouring
hill.
A little further on, in the area around Roscanvel, the
Pointe des Espagnols
headland offers a stunning view of Brest’s
natural harbour and the Iroise Sea. In this
area brimming with military installations
and old forts, austere moorland has largely
replaced Mediterranean vegetation.
Towards the west, the former lobster
fishing harbour of Carnaret offers a
pleasant rest stop. Standing proudly on
the seafront, Notre-Dame-de-Rocamadour
Chapel and the Tour Vauban keep vigil
over boats grounded in the cove which
provide a poignant reminder of the town’s
glorious maritime past.
Close by, the Lagatjar standing stones remind ramblers
that Brittany has been a spiritual land
since Neolithic times. Further on, the Tas
de Pois rock formations at the Pointe de
Pen-Hir headland are a superb example
of the region’s rugged cliffs, battered
by the pounding waves.
To the south of
the peninsula, after the beaches at Lost Marc’h and La Palue, the spectacle of the
Cap de la Chèvre is equally impressive.
Covered with heather and gorse bushes,
this rocky outcrop seems to cut through
the sea, protecting Douarnenez bay from
the ocean’s fury.
Quietly tucked away
in this imposing setting lie the elegant
bourgeois villas of the charming resort of Morgat.
Hiking in Brittany
A favourite spot for bathers and
windsurfing enthusiasts, the customs trail
follows a long line of dunes interspersed
with rocky headlands before reaching the
sardine port of Douarnenez.
In the distance, Menez Hom mountain (330 m), shrouded
in clouds, is the ultimate viewpoint for
admiring the Crozon peninsula’s wild
charm.
From La Torche to the Pointe du Raz
At the south of the Crozon peninsula,
Cornouaille is another favourite spot for
hikers and offers a refreshing change of
scenery. Several circular hiking trails
explore the Bigouden coast which is
sprinkled with forgotten chapels and quiet
harbours.
You will need at least a week to
explore its two famous natural sites, the
Pointe de la Torche and Pointe du Raz
headlands. Setting off from Pont-l’Abbé,
the coastal path crosses the harbours of
Loctudy, Lesconil and Le Guilvinec.
Take
a moment to watch the trawlers come in
and savour the unique atmosphere of the
quayside fish auction. Standing proudly at
65 m at the Pointe de Penmarc’h, Eckmühl
lighthouse has guided generations of
seafarers to Saint-Guénolé harbour.
A little
further on, La Torche has always been
a favourite spot for the world’s surfers
and windsurfers. In stormy weather, the
spectacle of the turbulent waves lashing
the long stretches of sandy beach is a sight
to behold.
Walkers can also enjoy the fine shingle
beaches along Audierne bay. Numerous
roadside crosses, chapels and dolmens all
contribute to the area’s unique atmosphere
which is conducive to meditation and
relaxation.
The large number of abandoned
guardrooms and seaweed ovens bear
witness to the recent history of the customs
trail, which overlooks little creeks with
mooring posts for passing sailors.
At the
beginning of Cap Sizun ornithological
reserve, the small mediaeval town of
Audierne dominates the Goyen estuary,
which cuts a path through this land at
the edge of the world. From the harbour,
a boat ride takes one hour to reach the
tiny Ile de Sein.
Despite its harsh climate,
this treeless rock is home to 250 people.
Here you can witness at first hand both
the power of the elements and the friendly
welcome of the locals.
Just opposite, the
legendary Pointe du Raz with its jagged edges defies the
ocean. Redeveloped by the Coastal Conservation Authority, the
area has regained its former untamed glory and offers a
boundless view, to the delight of hikers.
Come here on a stormy day if you dare…
