Stand on St. Malo’s ancient ramparts,
on the rugged Cap Fréhel headland
dominated by its sentinel lighthouse, on
almost any clifftop or bay of the Emerald
Coast or Pink Granite Coast where the
Atlantic funnels in to La Manche, and you
are struck by Brittany’s history - sturdy,
vigorous, colourful, independent.
Little changes when you linger on the
generous terrace of the St. Malo-Le
Tronchet golf clubhouse. On a recent visit
it was being rebuilt. But so was 80 per cent
of St. Malo port after the bombardments
of the Second World War.
A handsome
new hotel is now standing beside a much
updated clubhouse, the showplace, it
firmly believes, of Northern Brittany.
The architecture is classical Breton -
stone, granite and slate predominate. Sunningdale it isn’t.
The Sunday
Women’s Stableford competition has just finished, and
presentations are going on in the restaurant.
A beaming lady comes forward for her third-place prize on 25
points.
She is handed a plastic bag lined with ice blocks. Inside,
still squirming, is a magnificent lobster.
The winner’s prize is
scarcely bigger - but equally appreciated,
as it will surely be, by Monsieur back at
home.
Brittany golf believes in its long-term
future and from St Malo in the north
to Rhuys-Kerver in the south, huge
efforts are being made to satisfy local
player and visitor alike with more and
better facilities on and off the course.
France has 320,000 players for around
500 courses - so, for much of the time,
there’s room for all.
What to expect of the golf? Brittany’s 32
courses have a pleasing diversity and all
with a distinctly holiday atmosphere, not
least those with a championship history.
Greenkeeping standards are high, as are
the practice facilities.
The French player
is encouraged to loosen up on the driving
range or putting green before loading up
the driver for the first tee. Locker rooms
range from the relatively primitive to
five-star luxurious, but you are unlucky
not to get a good casual meal and vin de
pays in the clubhouse restaurant.
Among foreigners, British visitors are in
the preponderance.
Brittany, as big as
Dorset, Devon and Cornwall combined,
makes them welcome everywhere.
Recent figures show that, in a year, UK
residents make more than 12 million
trips to France.
Plymouth, Weymouth
and Portsmouth are popular Brittany
Ferries departure points for Roscoff and
St. Malo, while Condor Ferries operate
to St. Malo from Poole and Weymouth.
Brittany Ferries also serve the Norman
ports of Cherbourg and Caen, and Calais
now is only four hours’ distant by road.
For those preferring to leave the car
in the garage, British airports provide
relatively low-cost services to Dinard,
Rennes, Brest and Nantes, and hire cars
are readily available.
For the British, the Brittany Tourist
Board offers a «Golf Breaks Brittany»
advice and booking centre at 0 800 085
7739, and such services as pre-booked tee
times are available at discounted rates.
The Southern Brittany Golf Pass, for
example, will include an enjoyable mix
of rural and oceanic courses including
St. Laurent, Baden, Benodet, Ploemeur
Ocean, Kerver or Val Queven.
Whether
you play six courses on consecutive
days, or four on four days, it is excellent
value, with the Autumn rates. It is an area
notable for its micro-climate - around 2
000 hours of sunshine per year.
Whether
the choice is beach, water sport, rich and
varied landscape, unspoiled town or
ancient monument, there is so much to
enjoy as an alternative to the fairways.
The northern coast may attract those on
shorter breaks. To the east of the region
lie Club des Ormes, St. Malo-Le Tronchet
and Dinard. More towards the centre,
along or just back of sandy, islanded bays
and rugged cliffs, are Ajoncs d’Or, Les
Sables d’Or, Pleneuf Val Andre, Golf de
la Criniere and Saint Samson.
Mostly,
these are park rather than links courses,
but rock, sand and sea air area consistent
part of the charm. Towards the western
edge of the peninsula, Brest Iroise offers
emerald, gorse, heather and wild rock to
rival Ireland’s Atlantic coast.
From the hotel at Dinan, hosts of
my most recent tour, a golfing break
can include St Malo-Le Tronchet,
renowned for its watery challenges, but
culminating in one of the largest bunkers
in Europe at the 18th green; Val Andre,
not to be missed for its holes above the
great sweep of rugged bay;
Des Ormes,
set in the parkland of a 16th century
Renaissance château; Dinard, second
oldest course in France and genuine links
in style and challenge; La Freslonnière,
near Rennes, in verdant parkland around
a Louis XIII château;
Les Sables d’or
les Pins, expanded now to 18 holes with
a lively mix of broad fairway, sand and
water; and, off the beaten track, La
Crinière, near St Brieuc, nine
holes of well-watered golf
in the extended garden
of a residential stately
home. Its «special»
on a Monday is 18
holes and lunch.
From 27 euros.
That
is Brittany. Good
value. Good fun.
Away from it all.
Information: www.brittanytourism.com /
Booking:
www.brittany-best-breaks.com
All year round, Brittany’s
golf courses offer you the
very best!
Whether by the seaside or in
the country, Brittany’s golf
courses offer breathtaking
scenery, warm hospitality
and high-quality facilities.
Brittany’s golf courses
blend in perfectly with the
natural surroundings and
welcome both beginners
and experienced players.
The courses are superb,
original, and technical all at
the same time.
